The last episode of The Trials and Trámites of Canal Transit Logistics left the EYE crew in Colón, optimistically waiting for the boat to be admeasured for Panama Canal transit.
However, two days and a weekend passed with no visit from the Admeasurer. The WTP sat patiently in the industrial flats anchorage, alongside a number of sailboats in the same situation. Aboard one such boat was a good-natured but increasingly despondent solo Swedish sailor David, who developed a love/hate telephone relationship with the immovable admeasure scheduler Laura, whom he called “every hour” according to Laura.
To try and get things moving, we eventually decided to pay a personal visit to the ACP (Canal Authority) offices for a little good cop-bad cop as the office opened at 7:30 on Monday.
We rowed ashore just after sunrise, tied up the dinghy in front of a 500-foot container ship, slipped into the fenced ACP parking lot by foot, and entered the sterile air-conditioned offices with PFDs (personal flotation devices) in hand. We approached a sleepy-looking Laura at the front desk. Trevor began the conversation in hushed, polite Spanish, explaining how Adam’s patience was growing thin with the daily “mañana” assurances. Adam cut into the conversation with half-feigned frustration, asking for a firm date on which to expect the Admeasurer.
Laura came close to assuring us that he would be coming that same afternoon. “Everyone is sick with a virus” she said, also coming close to apologizing for the delay, but then reminding us that we were small fish compared to the lucrative container ships, who understandably hold priority. “For some reason, there are more trámites for a sailboat than for a huge tanker,” she said. “Trámites” can be roughly translated as a combination of “paperwork,” “formalities,” and “bureaucracy” and is a word that we have heard a lot in the last few weeks.
We left the ACP office and returned to the boat satisfied that we had done all we could. Sure enough, later that afternoon we were approached by an ACP launch and a friendly Admeasurer jumped off the bow onto our boat. He extended a tape measurer from our bow to the middle of our boat, then from the middle all the way to the stern, and wrote down a total length of 43 feet.
As Adam and the Admeasurer took care of some paperwork below deck, we were boarded by the incorrigible Brazilian Capitan Aleixo, who had seen the Admeasurer and was anxious to meet him, declare Brazilian-Panamanian solidarity, and receive assurances that he too would be measured that afternoon. After the Admeasurer finished with us he did indeed head over to Captain Aleixo’s boat.
We were then ready to go to shore for another round of paperwork and payments. Tito rolled up with his hench-partners in his launch, and brought us, Captain Aleixo, and an amicable Polish couple to the familiar taxi drivers for a ride into Colón. Alan and then-visiting girlfriend Taylor split off with ragamuffin guides to a nearby laundry mat, as Adam and Trevor headed to one bank to extract dollars and another bank to pay the dollars for the Canal transit fees. During a waiting session at Tito’s Office at William’s Payday Loans/Pawn Shop, our friendly cab driver brought us to a marine store where we purchased some jerry cans for extra diesel storage (the Pacific is a big place!).
Once we were measured and had paid, we were able to call the ACP to arrange a transit date for March 20th. We were finally confirmed! For a detailed account of our experience in the Panama Canal, see the post on “Our Canal Transit.”
After we were safely anchored on the Pacific side of the Canal, the only remaining logistics to take care of were our zarpe, cruising permit, fumigation certificate, and passports. The zarpe would legally clear us all the way to the Marquesas (the stop after Galapagos). Our cruising permit was valid for one month only and expired on March 24th, so we needed a new one. The fumigation certificate is for bugs and is required by the authorities in the Galapagos, and our passports needed to be stamped out of Panama. We had arranged with Tito to deliver us the necessary paperwork, which arrived a little later than expected. As always, the last step was a trip to the migrations office to stamp passports and legally leave Panama. It was a bittersweet moment as we bid farewell to a country that was our home for over a month! Hasta luego Panama!
Questions:
1. How did the amount of logistics and paperwork in Panama compare to other countries that we have visited? Can you think of any reasons why it was more/less?
2. Why did the Brazilian Captain Aleixo come aboard while the Admeasurer was measuring our boat?
3. Which is the closest word to a translation of the Spanish word “trámites”?
A. jokes
B. procedures
C. salsa
D. dreams
SOG