Plan Our Adventure: Fiji

We had a wonderful time exploring the Vava'u Group of Tonga, but it's that time again and other exciting destinations await. The beautiful anchorages, white sandy beaches, underwater caves, and great people, food, and weather of Tonga will be missed, but we know there is more to come. Our next stop is the Fijian island of Vanua Levu in the Cakaudrove province. We will be clearing into Fiji in the town of Savusavu. The island is famous for its hot springs.

Distance: 470 Nautical Miles

ETA: about 4 days

Heading: WNW

Fiji is strict on their procedures for clearing in and although we will not be allowed to make landfall until Savusavu, we will be sailing in and around many islands before we arrive. We expect to see islands on the second or third day of the crossing and we will be weaving in between them the rest of the way. The crew will have to keep a close watch at night. With luck, clear skies and a bright moon will help light the way.

POA

 

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Stray Dogs?

One thing some guidebooks warn about when arriving on islands are the populations of stray dogs. Luckily, we haven't seen any aggressive dogs. In fact, most dogs we've met are at one of two extremes: they either run away, or rush up wanting to be petted. The majority of these dogs look like stray dogs: fairly skinny, possibly limping a bit, and maybe sporting a good scar or two.

Our first day in Neiafu we met a dog who we would later see quite often around town, either walking about looking for friendly people, or sleeping on whatever doorstep was coolest. We finally discovered that he did have both a name (Stinky) and an owner (Lisa, the woman who runs a local coffee shop). We also heard more about him and the other dogs around town.

Stinky was found with an embedded collar, which means that someone put a collar on him and never took it off, even as Stinky was growing. Luckily, Lisa found Stinky and with a lot of patience and care was able to remove the collar and get him back in good health. (In fact, Stinky was probably the fattest dog on the island.) We learned that the majority of the dogs roaming about town do have owners, and all dogs are required to wear collars even though we saw few dogs actually wearing them.

Owning dogs on remote islands is difficult, because often there are no vets. Luckily, Lisa was able to take good care of Stinky and he is now living the good life!

WWI

 

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Vava'u Crafts

We've been able to see many of the traditional crafts here on Vava'u. On one of our first days here, we walked through the market in Neiafu. There were people selling the local fruits and vegetables, including taro, bananas, coconuts, and watermelons. What really caught our attention, though, were the carvings. There were giant wooden whales next to rows of intricate necklaces. We discovered that the necklaces are carved from cow bone, and there were an array of designs. Many were whales, but there were also geckos, sharks, hooks, and moon shapes. We saw these necklaces for sale in many places and around the necks of local and visitor alike.

One familiar craft that we've seen before is also made here on Tonga: tapa. These are paintings, typically geometric designs, pressed and then embellished by hand on the inner layer of bark from the mulberry tree. We've seen squares of this bark cloth, but also picture frames, postcards, and even dresses!

Another craft item made here in the Vava'u Group are grass mats. Our second night here, we anchored in a small cove and rowed the dinghy to shore to explore. We chose a direction to walk and soon came across a village. In the town hall building were four women seated on the ground, weaving small strips of dried grass into a huge floor mat. They said the mats take three months to make, and as soon as they finish one, they would start another. We saw smaller ones used as seat cushions in a local restaurant, and they really did make the hard wooden benches softer!

MIN

　

　

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Winter Solstice Down South

Our stopover in the Vava'u Group of Tonga marks another milestone in the EYE trip across the Pacific. It marks the southernmost point of our Pacific crossing and the furthest south that we have sailed since leaving the east coast of the US! Our southernmost latitude was 18 degrees and 44 minutes below the equator which (as you may remember) we crossed on the way to the Galapagos after leaving Panama.

Here in the southern hemisphere it is already winter! We are still pretty close to the equator so we are not cold, but we did notice a temperature drop here in Tonga compared to Samoa. The shortest day of the year (winter solstice) in the southern hemisphere and the longest day of the year (summer solstice) occurred just a few days ago on June 21^st. The sun reached its highest point above the equator on that day. From here on the days will be getting shorter in the northern hemisphere and longer in the southern.

Right now we're as far south from the sun as Rhode Island is north of it. We on the crew are used to getting snow in the winter, but instead we have a sweet Rhode Island summer.

TSS

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Tongan Monarchy

Tonga is one of the few countries in the world to have a monarchy that actively rules the nation. Although both Hawaii and Tahiti both had a royal family at one point in time, they have since given it up, leaving Tonga as the only island nation with a monarchy system in the Pacific.

The first King of Tonga was King George Tupou. He took the name George after his baptism by Wesleyan missionaries in 1831. Before this date, the line of heredity stretched far back with a series of high chiefs who held great power on the Tongan archipelago. In ancient times, the political structure and relationships between islands and their chiefs was not always clear. Captain Cook had particular trouble trying to find out who was the supreme leader of the islands and was led by various Tongans from chief to chief, each of whom claimed to be of the highest power. This sort of independence continues today and the people of Va'vau consider themselves somewhat separate from the rest of Tonga.

Tongan Kings and high chiefs tended to be very big men and women. It was a common Tongan belief that a small man could not be a powerful man. Because of this, the former King was once listed in the Guinness book of World Records weighing in at 440 lbs. It was also claimed that he ate 23 Big Macs on a trip to America and Disneyland. This was before he went on a fitness kick in the 1990s and lost a third of his weight by jogging around the palace grounds every morning.

The current king is King George Tupou V and he was inaugurated in 2008. After riots occurred in 2006 protesting the mismanagement of public funds, the new King has made steps to relinquish much of his power in favor of a more democratic system.

SOG

　

　

　

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Ta'ovala

The traditional clothing we have seen in the Pacific has been a variation of a long cloth wrapped around the waist. In Tonga this is called a tupenu, but the Tongans add a little bit extra. This accessory is called a ta'ovala and is a type of grass woven belt both men and women wear.

Ta'ovalas are made from pandanus leaves, plant fiber, or plastic strips. The weaving style is something every girl is taught at a young age. Everyday ta'ovalas tend to be quite small - only a few inches wide. The more formal the occassion, the bigger they get. Wedding ta'ovalas can reach from above the waist all the way down to the ankles!

According to legend, a group of Tongan sailors once arrived on land after a long and very arduous voyage. They were going to see the King but because of the voyage, all their clothing was either ripped or dirty. (We can certainly relate to this since anything worn on the boat while sailing seems to get instantly dirty and ripped. We still have no idea how this happens.) To make themselves respectable, the sailors cut up pieces of their sail and wrapped it around themselves before going to the audience. The King was so impressed that the sailors would sacrifice their most precious possession for him that he decreed this to be the official court dress henceforth.

SWC

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A Basket of Goods: Tonga!

We're here in the northern Vava'u island group in the Kingdom of Tonga. There are many remote villages spread amongst the islands, as well as one larger administrative center: Neiafu. There's a main strip with restaurants, shops, and banks in the town. Although there is no McDonalds here in the Vava'U group, we were able to fill our basket quite easily. Here are our prices in the local Tongan currency, the 'Pa'anga.'

Big Mac: NONE!
Haircut: 20 Pa-anga
Coke: 1.50 Pa-Anga

ABG

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The Matamaka Postcard Project

Want to help a Peace Corps volunteer here in Tonga? Participate in the Matamaka Postcard Project!

Feleti is an outer-island Peace Corps volunteer working as a teacher at the village of Matamaka in the Vava'U Group in the Kingdom of Tonga. To help teach geography and culture to his students, he is asking people from around the world to send a postcard from their home town. Much as EYE of the World is connecting the rest of the world with schools back home, Feleti is connecting his remote village in Tonga with the rest of the world!

To participate, simply send a postcard from your hometown to:

Matamaka GPS
c/o Peace Corps
PO Box 136
Neiafu, Vava'u
Kingdom of Tonga
South Pacific

He will be accepting postcards until December, 2011. He keeps a running tally of postcards received at: http://farfumandtonga.blogspot.com.

Check it out!

SMC

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Samoa Top Ten!

Apia, Samoa was a great place to visit. It was different from Pago Pago in many ways. Here's our top ten!

10. We had to look right when crossing the street, because they drive on the left side of the road here!

9. Old men playing checkers around the market don't play by American rules. Every piece acts like a king and a kingpiece moves 2 to 3 places. They play very fast and slam the pieces down on every move.

8. Food can be super cheap if you go to the right place. We got a whole plate of food- fried fish, fried chicken, a banana, and a hot dog- for only four Tala!

7. There are many street vendors here who try to sell you a variety of goods, like lavalavas, woven fans, and even kids selling q-tips.

6. A big name in English literature, Robert Louis Stevenson, moved his family here in the 1890's. He earned the nickname 'Tusitala' from the Samoans for his storytelling abilities.

5. Compared to American Samoa, this is a very lively and vibrant city. People are very busy throughout the day and love to go out at night.

4. Samoa was the first independent country in the Pacific and they are very proud of it. Flag Day is celebrated June 1st.

3. Samoa's transition to Christianity was very easy, because an ancient Samoan god prophesized that missionaries would bring a new religion to the island.

2. There is a strong presence of the world's development and aid organizations: notably Japan, Australia, and New Zealand.

1. There's a marching band every morning! Apia is a fascinating place!

FTA

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The Morning March

Flag ceremonies are important in many countries, but Samoa puts a special twist on theirs. Every morning at 8:45 the Royal Police Marching Band steps out onto Apia's busiest road and marches half a kilometer to the government building. Even though they move at a decent pace, the line of cars and buses is forced to fall in line behind them.

Rows of uniformed officers led the way, followed by the similarly-dressed marching band. A baton-twirler kept time while drums, trumpets, saxophones, and a sousaphone belted out a very energetic musical number.

This is a long-standing tradition and quite a sight to see!

SOG

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Legends of the South Pacific

Just as Gauguin moved to Tahiti and Hiva Oa to look for inspiration for his paintings, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson settled in Samoa in the early 1890's. He wrote many books, the most commonly known being Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, and Treasure Island. The Samoans gave him the nickname 'Tusitala,' which means 'Teller of Tales.'

The Samoans had great respect for him, and after his death he was buried with a ceremony that was normally reserved for royalty. His house in Vailima is currently a museum and there is also a hiking path to his tomb, which is set high on a hill overlooking the city and harbor.

Summer reading list:
Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde
Treasure Island

WWI

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Samoan Language

Although English is the official language of business, the national language is Samoan. We've found that while the majority of people speak English very well, they often revert to Samoan when speaking with each other. The marina representative, Clare, spoke perfect English, but when speaking with her officemates switched to Samoan effortlessly.

Here are some Samoan words:
Hello - Talofa
Goodbye - Tofa
Thank you - Fa'afetai
Please - Fa'amolemole
Yes - Ioe
No - Leai
Maybe - Masalo
Tomorrow - Taeao
Goodnight - Manuia le po
How are you? - O a mai oe?
I am hungry - Fia ai

Question!
What words are similar in Samoan and Tahitian? Why do you think this is?

SWC

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A Basket of Goods: Samoa!

Here in Apia we didn't have to go far to fill our basket; everything was within 2 miles of the boat. The official currency here is 'tala.' Here are the prices:
Big Mac: 10.90
Coke: 7.00
Haircut: 12.00

ABG

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American Samoa Top Ten!

We recently made our first visit back to the United States since November. American Samoa (pronounced SAA-mo-a) wasn't quite like the United States, but it wasn't quite like the rest of the South Pacific either. Here's our top ten:

10) The Rainmaker - Pago Pago's harbor is surrounded by a high mountain ridge called the 'Rainmaker.' It literally makes rain! It rained about once an hour while we were there (some guidebooks call it the rainiest harbor in the world).

9) Makeshift Buses - public transportation consisted of elaborate wooden buses built onto the backs of pickup trucks. Each had its own soundtrack, decoration, and demeanor. They cost $1 to go anywhere in town and you never had to wait for one.

8) Provisions Are Cheap - we resupplied at a CostCo type store called 'Cost-U-Less.' We loaded up on supplies at the cheapest prices we've seen since Panama (similar prices to the mainland US).

7) The Harbor Is Not Cheap - Our cruising guide said a visit to the harbor is free if you're an American vessel. Not true. By the time we left, we had paid $160 in port and customs fees.

6) Tsunami Reconstruction - a devastating tsunami hit the harbor several months ago. Aside from the earthquake that preceded it by 15 minutes, the only warning was the sight of the water rushing out of the harbor before the first wave hit. Many businesses have been rebuilt, but the island is still recovering.

5) Tuna - The tuna canneries were the biggest source of employment in American Samoa. Due to a minimum wage hike, many of the jobs are leaving, putting the future health of the economy in question.

4) Bats - This is the first Pacific island we've visited with indigenous mammals- the 'flying fox.' Animals, plants, and people spread from west to east, and the islands in French Polynesia proved too far for the mammals.

3) Football - Samoans are big, and big dudes are good at American Football. It is a popular sport on the island, and the locals are proud of the 30+ Samoans that play in the NFL.

2) Pe'a - Like through much of Polynesia, tattooing is an integral part of Samoan culture. The traditional tattoo here is called the pe'a. It covers the body from the knees all the way up past the waist and is used to show allegiance to the village chief. Samoa is the only island in the South Pacific with an unbroken history of tattooing (it was banned by missionaries across all the other islands).

1) Friendly People - although the sight of a large Samoan man in a skirt (lava-lava) may be intimidating, the Samoan people are genuinely friendly. It was a true pleasure to spend our time here!

FTA

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Plan Our Adventure: Samoa

Samoa (formally known as "Western Samoa") is our next stop, and although it's right next door to American Samoa we are looking forward to a totally different experience. Samoa is not a U.S territory. It has its own culture, traditions, even its own currency! We will be stopping at the city of Apia (pronounced "ah-PEA-ah") so stay tuned!

ETA: Monday, June 21st 
Distance: 60 Nautical Miles
Time for Crossing: ~12 hours

POA

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Are You Ready for Samoan Football?!

Here in American Samoa, we’ve seen a variety of sports being played by people of all age groups. They play on actual fields wearing uniforms, with spectators and even an accompanying drum circle, but there are also pickup games going on in parking lots. We’ve witnessed volleyball, cricket, soccer, and rugby, but the big sport here on the island is football.

It seems like every time we walk by the local field or ride the bus by the high school, a football practice is in full swing. Most kids we’ve seen walking around town, probably headed home after school, are carrying their shoes, helmet, and pads. Just tonight in our favorite McDonald’s, there was some sort of celebration going on. There was a group of student football players and their coaches all partaking in dinner, and in the middle of the table? A shiny silver trophy.

It’s very evident how intimidating Samoans must be on the field; they‘re very big and powerful, plus they each usually have at least one fierce-looking tattoo. (This is in contrast to their very amiable and mellow demeanors!) Samoans have made quite a name for themselves on the NFL circuit in the US, as well. The famed Troy Polamalu is a Samoan who plays for the Pittsburgh Steelers. 60 Minutes even traveled to American Samoa to investigate the Samoan football phenomenon, and produced a very interesting and informative report about it (seen here!).

Even though the entire island’s population of 65,000 couldn't fill some NFL stadiums, more than 30 Samoans play for various NFL teams. Quite a testament to their determination and prowess on the field!

SOT

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Lava Lava

When we got to Samoa we were surprised to see two men walk out of the High Court near our boat wearing dress shirts, ties, and some kind of skirt. The more we walked around town, the more we saw men wearing this type of clothing. We found out that this type of skirt is called a "lava lava" here in Samoa, and is a variation of the wrapping cloth worn all over Polynesia. In Tahiti they are called "pareos" but only women wear them.

Samoans wear two types of lava lava. One is brightly colored and decorated with traditional Samoan patterns; these bright lava lavas are considered informal and are worn as everyday clothing. The other type of lava lava is solid in color and made out of the same kind of fabric you would expect a suit to be made of. They often have pockets and belts with buckles built in. They are worn to formal events such as church or going to court. We found a cheaper version of one of these in a local store and decided to buy them to try them out. They are very comfortable and it is easy to see why many Samoans prefer this traditional form of dress.

SMC

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A Basket of Goods: American Samoa!

We're back in the USA! Walking around Pago Pago, we see the same road signs, police uniforms, and post office you see back at home. The US dollar is the official currency and all of our goods were easy to find. We had to go no more than 300 yards to get each of our items.

 

So how does the price of our basket compare?

Big Mac: $3.55

Coke: $1.20

Haircut: $8.00

 

ABG

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Clearing into America(n Samoa)

One of the things every cruising guide tells you not to do is enter a new harbor in the dark. This is especially true in the South Pacific due to the strong currents and prevalence of coral. Unlike most other harbors, the mouth at Pago Pago is wide and well-charted on our GPS. During our approach, we could see buoy lights marking our way in. This is not to say that our approach was easy. We had Alan on the bow with the spotlight and still only barely caught the reflections of a couple of channel markers whose the lights had gone out. We also spotted trash and plastic bags floating around. When we started to near the inner harbor we noticed strange fishy smells and what smelled like garbage as the wind started to pick up and shift directions. It was easy to see why the cruising guides don't recommend coming into a harbor at night as we had a very hard time trying to spot a place to moor.

After motoring in circles around the harbor trying to find a dock to pull up to (or at least a good mooring ball) we finally decided to try and dock at the end of an L-pier. Moving very slowly we crept up to the pier only to shine the light down in the water and see a giant rusty steel I-beam about to puncture our bow. We quickly threw the boat in reverse and decided to tie up to some huge grey Navy barges. Some of us tried to sleep on deck but we quickly received the first of many rainstorms. Here in the harbor it seems to rain about every hour.

The next morning we clambered over the giant steel barges and made our way down the main street towards the direction we expected to find the customs office. About 500 yards down the road, we came to the entrance to Pago Pago's container port. Even though the shipping port in Pago Pago is much smaller than a similar one you would find in the US, it still sports many of the same signage and security warnings declaring the area a security zone. We talked to the huge and scary-looking Samoan guard decked out in an American-style port security uniform. He turned out to be very friendly and directed us to a door where US customs was located.

We walked through the doorway and down a long, dimly-lit hall where we encountered four burly Samoan men holding a circular saw. In the corner at a desk under the sole light in the room was an older burly Samoan in a hard hat with the word "customs" taped on it. He motioned us over asked for our papers which consisted of passports, crew list, and our clearance from Bora Bora. He explained that they had just moved into this new location and were still in the middle of constructing the office. He first asked us if we had any firearms or ammunition, and then asked us about fruits and vegetables. After making multiple copies of our Bora Bora clearance papers and filling out some forms he directed us to our next stop, which was the Port Authority office just down the hall.

The Port Authority office had already been constructed and furnished with a high desk as well as posters of different container ships and routes that run through American Samoa. We handed our passports over and answered some questions about how long we would be staying on the island.

We handed over a copy of our crew list and some other ship's papers and then were told to head over to the Harbormaster to find a permanent mooring. We walked around the huge container ship building and up some stairs until we got to an office overlooking the entire harbor. Inside we filled out more forms and picked up some informational packets on American Samoa. We talked to the Harbormaster and asked him if we could stay tied up to the grey Navy barges since the depth of the other open spots on the pier were a little shallow for us.

From there, the Harbormaster said that we only had one last stop until we were done. He directed us downstairs to quarantine. Quarantine was located in a room with nothing but three desks that seemed to be situated as far away from each other as possible. We talked to the guy sitting at desk right by the entrance. He offered us some of his breakfast which consisted of flatbread and cold butter. He asked us if any of us were sick and took a copy of our crew list.

We exited the port area saying goodbye to the security officer out front, and started to walk down the one road toward immigration. We were told that the immigration office was just around the point in a white building, but we had to ask multiple people for directions because it seemed as if every building around the point was white. We finally found the immigration office located in a large government building vaguely shaped like the Samoan seal. Immigration looked like a DMV but without the lines. We were quickly ushered back behind the large counter where we sat down and handed over our passports. One of the officials helping us scanned our passports into the fancy computer system while the other one (who seemed to be the more senior of the two) operated the stamp. When this was done we were officially welcomed to American Samoa.

SOG

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Spotlight on American Samoan Culture

Unlike the United States (which is divided into states with their own governors), Tutuila (the main island in American Samoa) is separated into villages that surround the island. These villages are separated by natural land boundaries such as freshwater streams or deep valleys. These boundaries form the borders of each village where one large "family" (sometimes up to 300 people) reside, all governed by one high Chief. The Chief decides what can and cannot be done on the land. The family takes care of the land together by picking up trash, keeping the beach clean, and planting and caring for crops. The Chief protects those within the village and makes all of the important decisions, as well as handling disputes. In American Samoa, the Chief also handles interactions between the family and the government. Today, the village system is still very much in use.

Within the village, Samoan men historically were expected to show their loyalty and commitment of service to the family by undergoing the right of passage of the traditional Samoan Pe'a (pay-ah) tattoo. This is a tattoo that covers their body from the knees all the way up to the base of the rib cage (and sometimes to the armpits). It was (and still is) a source of pride for Samoan men. It is a source of shame if the tattoo is started and not completed. The long and painful ritual is usually completed over 12 separate sessions but it varies with the pain threshold of the individual. The tattoo is characterized by large areas of blacked out skin and intricate geometric designs and lines. It is only done with traditional tools- a boar's tusk sharpened into a comb of needle points, attached to a piece of turtle shell with a long handle. This is dipped in ink and tapped with another stick to pierce the ink into the skin. It is common for up to six other people to assist the tattooist by keeping the person calm and stretching the skin in the area being tattooed. Traditionally, a man's status in the village was indicated in the design of his tattoo, but today, simply finishing the tattoo demands respect. Full body tattoos are less common in Samoa today but there are still traditional followers. Samoan women have a similar traditional tattoo that goes from the knees to the waist in a geometric pattern spaced out around the thighs. Unlike tattooing in western culture, which can symbolize rebellion or individuality, the traditional Samoan tattoo symbolizes loyalty and commitment to one's family and service to the Chief.

Another traditional Samoan pastime is the drinking of Ava. Ava is an important drink (similar to coffee) that is shared between village leaders before important meetings or when meeting new people. The drink is prepared with warm water and served from a shallow bowl. It is said to calm the drinker and reduce anxiety. This has the benefit of helping to smooth over discussion during the meeting and hopefully reduce any potential conflict. Traditionally the Chief's daughter of the host village prepared the drink. The Samoan seal pictured above depicts an Ava bowl, a ceremonial whip used by Chiefs to swat away flies, and a spear.

SWC

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Polynesian Navigation

While here in American Samoa, we visited a Samoan named Wilson who was constructing a traditional Samoan sailboat with plans to sail around the South Pacific. The ancient Polynesian people were excellent sailors as they spread across the region over 3,000 years ago.

They found their way by watching the winds, waves, suns, and stars. The winds in the South Pacific mostly blow from the southeast, so to sail to the windward islands would require waiting for a wind shift. Wilson explained to us that in the old days the favorite time to sail was when a cyclone was passing by. They would try to hitch a ride on the southwest trailing edge, thus cutting a passage that would normally take two weeks down to three days.

When the sailors thought they were getting close to land, they would scan the horizon for cloud formations. The high mountains on many of the islands in the South Pacific force hot, humid air from the water's surface up into colder air at the mountain's peak, thus creating large clouds.

Another way that ancient Polynesian sailors were able to tell that they were close to land is by tasting the water. Rain runoff from the mountains would make the surface water taste less salty. This, combined with the wind direction, would tell the sailors which direction the island was located. Skilled navigators could even tell what kind of current they were in by tasting the water.

The final method for finding land was to watch the birds. Certain birds such as the frigate bird always return to land at the end of the day. Near the end of the day, frigate birds will start circling high in the air after they are done fishing. They do this until there are many birds together and then they fly back to their roosting area in a group. Wilson said another good sign was if you saw a frigate bird carrying a fish. That meant that a female bird was carrying food back for her babies.

During the day and night Polynesians would sail using the sun and the stars. Which stars you saw when the sun went down or came up would determine how far north or south you were. A big part of a traditional Samoan tattoo or Pe'a is a compass rose in the middle of the back. It depicts a man with his hands outstretched, one pointing to where the sun rises and one to where the sun sets. From there, multiple lines radiate outward from the center - just as you would see on a western style map. Wilson said he thought the lines could have helped these ancient navigators determine angles between North, South, East and West.

Most of the knowledge about how to navigate in this specific way has been lost. It was only handed down through generations and remained a closely guarded secret.

TSS

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Charlie the Tuna and Minimum Wage

One of the most noticeable things here in Pago Pago is the fishing industry. There are many tuna fishing boats, a large-boat service yard, and several tuna canneries in the harbor. However, the industry is not what it used to be. There is only one cannery currently operating - the Starkist plant. The Bumblebee Tuna plant closed several years ago, the Chicken of the Sea plant closed a year and a half ago, and word is that the Starkist plant won't make it through next year. As these plants leave, so does the primary source of income for the island.

We visited the tuna plants and spoke to several workers and managers. We asked why the plants are closing. The answer is unanimous: the minimum wage.

In 2007, the US Congress attached an amendment to a bill that gradually raised the minimum wage in American Samoa until it would reach the minimum wage in the mainland US. Wages before 2007 were around $3.25 per hour, while the minimum wage in the US is $7.25 per hour.

Support for the minimum wage is low in Samoa. According to a report by the Government Accountability Office (GAO), the unemployment rate has risen from 10% to 30%, and real incomes have dropped 6% as a result of the job losses. The tuna companies that have closed have shifted their operations to Thailand, where they face wages of under $1 per hour.

What has occurred is a phenomenon covered early in introductory economics. The diagram above is known as a Supply and Demand graph, which represents the relationship between the quantity and price of a good for both consumers and suppliers. The supply curve is upward sloping (indicating a positive relationship between price and quantity supplied), while the demand curve is downward sloping (indicating a negative relationship between price and quantity demanded). The intersection of these two lines is the resulting open market equilibrium.

The minimum wage is known as a 'price control.' The price of labor is set above the market equilibrium price. Employers demand less labor at this higher price while additional suppliers of labor (workers) enter the labor force (those choosing to seek a job, new immigration, etc). The quantity supplied exceeds the quantity demanded. This difference represents a surplus of labor (e.g. unemployment).

So what's the solution? This is a place where political and economic opinions may differ. Some might argue for eliminating the minimum wage. Wages would decrease, possibly bringing employers back.

Others might say that with ever-diminishing trade barriers, the factories would have left someday anyways.

The Samoan government is trying hard to hang onto the last surviving tuna cannery. They have requested $18 million dollars to try and attract more businesses.

Where is this money best spent? Trying to hang onto the canneries may be a lost cause, however there could be great value in retraining the cannery employees into a new, higher-skilled workforce. American Samoa has great infrastructure, an English speaking population, a fast internet connection, and free and easy access to the domestic US market.

The current outlook may appear bleak, however Samoa's future is ripe with opportunity.

For more information on the minimum wage in American Samoa, see the June 1, 2010 Wall Street Journal editorial entitled "The New Cannery Row; Congress wants $18 million to offset the jobs it destroyed in Samoa." Also check out Samoan Congressman Faleomavaega Eni Hunkin's response at samoanews.com.

　

MIN

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Name This Hopper!

To celebrate Will's birthday, the crew played a round of golf at the local course on American Samoa. While driving to the green on one hole, this little guy narrowly avoided being squished by the cart by hopping quickly out of the way! He wedged himself very effectively into the fork of a nearby tree to hide.

He's greenish-brown, has a wide mouth and huge eyes, and is able to hop quite a long distance. These animals croak loudly and like to eat bugs using their tongues!

Name That Creature!


NTC

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Name This Flyer!

We first spotted this creature from a bus at dusk. There were many of them flying above the trees and we mistook them for birds because of their huge size.

There are two species of these here, and they're the only mammals native to American Samoa. They can weigh up to a pound and have a wingspan of almost 3 feet! Their smaller relatives in the US flit around very quickly, but these larger species soar like birds. They eat pollen and fruits, and roost hanging upside down from tree branches.

Name That Creature!




NTC

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Inventory

One day during the middle of the crossing, Amanda spent a while doing a bit of inventory. Keeping track of our ship's stores is important for provisioning at the next stop. Will may say "Hey we should get more jelly, I really love peanut butter and jelly sandwiches." Amanda can reply "No need for more jelly, Will, there's already five jars of it on the boat, including strawberry, guava, and pineapple."

You might be curious as to what food is hidden away on the boat, so here's the current inventory:

Peanut butter- 3
Jelly- 5
Mayo- 6
Ketchup- 1
Salad dressing- 2
Vinegar- 1
Olive oil- 1
Vegetable oil- 3
Butter- 4 cans

Mashed potatoes- 2 bags
Flour- 2 bags
Stuffing- 2 packs
Cake mix- 4 boxes
Salt- 1 bag
Sugar- 1 bag
Parmesan cheese- 2 containers
Rice- 1 bag
Corn muffin mix- 2 boxes
Pasta- lots
Bread- 3 packs
Saltines- 3 boxes

The following goods come in can form:
Red beans- 22
Pink beans- 4
Black beans- 18
Garbanzo beans- 21
Pinto beans- 2
Refried beans- 8
Baked beans- 7
Pork and beans- 1
Cassoulet- 1
Chili- 2

Tomato sauce- 3
Tomato paste- 2
Diced tomato- 5
Crushed tomato- 2
Flavored tomato sauce- 4
Pizza sauce- 1

Green beans- 3
Spinach- 6
Peas- 12
Mixed veggies- 15
Corn- 7
Lima beans- 3
Carrots- 2
Jalapeños- 1
Asparagus- 1
Mushrooms- 1

Chicken- 5
Luncheon meat- 8
Oysters- 1
Sardines- 3
Salmon- 5
Pate de foie- 1
Corned beef hash- 3
Tuna- 52


Questions:
1. If every can of tuna contains 5 ounces of tuna, and Alan's tuna salad sandwiches have 3 ounces of tuna each, how many sandwiches can we make if we use all 52 cans of tuna?

2. Here are the nutrition facts from a can of garbanzo beans:
Serving Size: ½ cup (130g)
Servings Per Container: about 3.5
Amount per serving:
Calories: 110
Total fat: 1g
Cholesterol: 0mg
Sodium: 350mg
Total Carbohydrates: 20g
Protein: 7g

If there are 72 beans per serving, about how many beans come in each can? If the four of us split a can of garbanzo beans, how many calories would we each gain? How many grams of protein?　

3. Do an inventory at your own house. How many cans of baked beans do you have? How many cans does your entire class have?

And finally, the most important question of all:
4. You've seen our list of ingredients. What can we make for dinner using what we have available?? Send us your recipe ideas at crew@eyeotw.org!


TSS

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Here Comes Summer!

Many of our participating schools are counting down the last days of the school year.  Summer is fast approaching, and we're sure all of you are quite eager for its arrival!  Although you might be 'off' for the summer, the EYE of the World crew will still be hard at work.  Our time in the southern hemisphere is limited due to cyclone and typhoon seasons, so we're going to keep moving, visiting new places, and writing new stories.

 

And just because school's out for summer, doesn't mean the fun has to end!  Keep up with the crew on your own or with your parents at www.eyeotw.org.  Keep in touch by e-mailing crew@eyeotw.org or messaging us on facebook.  Don't have access to a computer at home?  Not a problem!  Stop by your local public library and follow along.

 

We've also contacted some of the public libraries in your neighborhood and are working to set up a Follow-The-Adventure program.  We hope to provide venues where you can stop in and see our latest post cards, read the latest posts, and maybe even participate in a video-conference with the crew!

 

If you would like to learn how you can incorporate EYE of the World into your library, summer camp, or other program, please e-mail our U.S. based director, Alan Witt at alan.witt@eyeotw.org.

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Plan Our Adventure: Samoa!

It's that time again. We will soon be headed to a new destination, a new culture, more great experiences, and bid farewell to the French Polynesian Islands. French will no longer be the official language, the Polynesian Franc will no longer be valid currency, and fresh baguettes will probably be harder to come by.

New Destination: Samoan Island chain

Distance: 1,300 Nautical Miles

Heading: WNW

Possible halfway stopover: Island of Suwarrow (Cook Islands)

We will be making landfall in the Eastern Samoan islands calling at the port of Pago Pago in American Samoa first (we'll be back on US soil!) Afterward, we will make our way west for about 5 or 6 days stopping at the other islands and Western Samoa's capital city, Apia. The two smaller eastern islands of the Samoan island chain (Tutuila and Manu'a) are owned by the United States and offer easier communication with the mainland. The bigger western islands of Upolu and Savai'i make up the majority of the Independent State of Samoa, which gained their independence from New Zealand in 1962 and are self governing. The Samoans are well known for their skill as navigators and they boast a long history as sailors of the south pacific. We are all looking forward to exploring and learning about this amazing place first hand.

What would you like to see and learn?  Where would you like the crew to go?  E-mail us and let us know at crew@eyeotw.org!

POA

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Society Islands Top Ten

We had a great time in the Society Islands.  We made stops on Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, and Bora Bora.  Each was different, both in geography and culture, but we found them all extremely interesting!  Here's our top ten:

 

10) Spearfishing!  Alan and Will picked up a spear-gun in Papeete and had some good hunting on Moorea and Huahine (better luck outside the reef on Huahine).

 

9) There are lots of one, three, and six person single outrigger canoes throughout the islands.  We saw local clubs training every late-afternoon.  They prepare and participate for the annual three-day, four island, Hawaiki Nui canoe race that takes place in November.  The 116 km race is as big an event here as the Super-Bowl is in the US.

 

8) We surfed Teahupoo!  Not the big offshore break that Laird Hamilton made famous, but we did bodysurf on a tiny beach wave onshore with the local kids.  Surfing is very popular here, and people travel from around the world to surf Polynesia's famous waves.

 

7) Sacred blue-eyed eels!  These long, slimy creatures live in a creek on Huahine.  The locals and tourists feed them.  They are very tame - if they weren't so slipper you could probably hold one like a puppy!

 

6) Fruits!  Not an excessive amount of fruits like in a rainforest, but we did see much land cultivated to grow papayas, pineapples,  bananas, starfruit, and coconut.

 

5) Cheap baguettes!  For 50 PF each at almost any grocery store, they have become a WTP staple.

 

4) If you combined the Marquesas with the Tuamotus, you would get the Society Islands.  Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, and Bora Bora are all mountains rising from the sea bottom, with fringing reefs surrounding their shores.  This geological formation is younger than the Tuamotus, but older than the Marquesas, and provides the best of both worlds with great hiking and protected anchorages.

 

3) The people are incredibly friendly!  We were given a sack-full of fruit on Moorea, a ride around the island on Huahine, and a delicious Poission Crux lunch on Bora Bora.  This attitude is prevalent throughout French Polynesia, and even having spend a month here, we are still in quite awe of it.

 

2) Roulettes!  There are many vans that sell food throughout the islands.  While some sell delicious and cheap 'steak-frites,' others serve excellent dinners prepared by proper French chefs in flip flops!  You can even order a thick and juicy T-bone - from a truck!

 

1) Here are our votes for favorite island: Adam: Huahine; Alan: Huahine; Amanda: Huahine; Will: Moorea.

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The Big Pacific Bowl

When we anchor in various locations around the world, one of the things we have to be vigilant about is the state of the tide. As the tide moves up and down we have to make sure that we have enough anchor line to maintain our hold on the seabed. One of the things that we have noticed here in Tahiti is that the tide behaves differently than in other parts of the world.

Usually the tide will follow the moon, with high tide occurring about 50 minutes later each day as the moon slowly rotates around the earth. Here in Tahiti the high tide occurs at noon and midnight each day. We have found that this is called a sun tide. This effect occurs because Tahiti is centrally located in the middle of the pacific basin. An analogy is to have a bowl full of water and then shake it back and forth. You will notice big oscillations on either side of the bowl but the middle will be relatively flat. The tides due to the moon cancel itself out and the tides due to the sun becomes more visible.

 

SOS

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A Link Across the Ocean

While we were walking around the city of Papeete, Tahiti, we stumbled across an internet cafe. We had experienced very slow internet in the Marquesas and the Tuamotus so we were curious how an internet cafe could possibly operate.

We learned that the proprietors name was Pierre and that he had originally worked in France as a network administrator for a large internet service provider, or ISP. Pierre had moved to Tahiti three years ago and when he opened his café, there were three others like his which have all since closed down.

From Pierre, we learned that currently all internet traffic is done by satellite. There is a satellite link from Tahiti and also a satellite link from the Marquesas to Tahiti. These satellite links have pretty low bandwidth but the biggest problem for his customers (who are mostly computer gamers) is latency. Latency is the time that it takes to send a message and receive a reply. Because the internet data has to travel all the way to a satellite and back down to earth, latency can be as high as half a second. That may not sound like much but to computers and computer gamers, that delay can literally be the difference between life and virtual death.

Pierre was however very optimistic for the future. By the time we had gotten to Tahiti, an underwater fiber optic cable had just been completed (although it had not been hooked up yet). This cable was started in Bora Bora on Nov 24, 2009 and by December 15, all of the large society islands had been wired. From there the ship departed from Papenoo, Tahiti, laying cable 2,889 miles to the big island of Hawaii.

The cable was laid by Alcatel-Lucent Submarine Networks and the data connection is supplied by Pacific LightNet, an ISP in Hawaii. All the work is being paid for by the French Polynesia government and will cost 100 million dollars. The new fiber optic line will be managed in French Polynesia by Mana which is part of OPT, a government run company that provides telephone, postal service, and internet.

When the cable is actually up and running (it won't be operational until July) it will increase the internet speed from the current maximum of 500 Megabits per second to 20 Gigabits per second, a 40 fold increase. 20 Gigabits is a little bit faster than transferring an entire DVD every 2 seconds and about 100 times faster than your typical home computer hard drive can read and write data.

With this new internet connection, Pierre will be able to add more services to his internet cafe such as video conferencing and internet games which require low latency. OPT is also promising a 20% lower cost to access the internet, which should also help Pierre's business.

If you are into learning about technology, we recommend you check out the book/article "Mother Earth, Mother Board" available online for free or at your library. It's an older article that ran in WIRED in 1997 about the construction of the world's longest fiber optic cable and gives interesting insight into something most of us take for granted.

SMC

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A Lesson in Foreign Currency Investment

As you may recall, to enter French Polynesia, we didn't have to pay any fees or acquire any expensive permits, however each member of the crew did need to purchase a 'repatriation bond.'  If our boat sank or we decided to overstay our visa, the government would use this money to fly us back home.  We got the money back when we cleared out of the country.  The only problem, is that we had to pay in Pacific Francs (PF - the currency used here).

 

In the Marquesas on May 5th, we stopped by the 'Banque Socredo,' (the only bank on the island), and deposited 115,000 PF per person.  The bank charged a 2,930 PF fee for this service.  The exchange rate the bank was charging at the time was ~87 PF per 1 USD (with one dollar, you could buy 87 pacific francs).

 

In Bora Bora on June 3rd, we stopped by the 'Banque Socredo' with our clearance papers to get our money back.  We were given 115,000 PF back.  The exchange rate to convert PF to USD at the time was ~102 PF per 1 USD.  The bank charged a 581 PF fee this time.

 

The exchange rates between most foreign currencies are not fixed.  The price of PF to USD can change just like the price of gasoline can.  Unfortunately, during our stay in French Polynesia, the USD became much 'stronger' compared to the PF (which is pegged to the value of the Euro).  The Euro is the currency used in France and throughout most of Europe.  When a currency is 'pegged,' that means its exchange rate does not fluctuate.

 

Questions:

 

1) On May 5th, how many PF did we give the bank?  What was this in USD?

 

2) On June 3rd, how many PF did the bank give back to us?  What was this in USD?

 

3) How much did our stay in French Polynesia cost us?

 

Bonus Question: Where did that money go?

 

 

SOG

 

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Polynesian Marae

In many of the island guides we saw, historical sites called 'marae' were mentioned. We decided to search one out and explore it.

The marae we visited on Tahiti was actually the reconstructed version of the original that once stood on the same spot. There were giant stone statues in a rock-strewn field on the slope of a low hill, and where the hill leveled out there stood the marae. The woman we spoke to said there was an original marae further up the hill, and it might take a little hiking to get to it. Intrigued, we hiked up a small path for quite a ways, and were rewarded for our efforts by an overgrown rock pile. Not quite as impressive as the rebuilt marae, but still interesting!

The islands each have their own marae design, but all have a very flat, rectangular, stage-like area as the focal point. The marae we saw also had wide pyramid-like steps on one end. Made from stone or coral, these meeting places served many functions. Small family marae were used for family events like births and deaths. Large marae hosted events such as village meetings and religious ceremonies. Sacrifices were also made on the marae, including human sacrifices from enemy villages. The name of the marae we visited was called Arahupahu, which in Tahitian means 'barbeque!'

Currently, the marae are historical sites but are also used for festivals and celebrations. When we visited, people were busy flattening out a section of gravel to be used as a seating area for the July 14^th celebrations.

SWC

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Everybody's Going Surfing!

Some of the lesser known allures of the island of Tahiti are the great surf spots - especially those on the south shores. The islands of the South Pacific are said to be the birthplace of surfing, but only in the last 50 years has surfing really entered the global spotlight as a mainstream water sport. For those die-hards out there, it is even a way of life. While none of us onboard the WTP surf, we can still appreciate the power of the waves in our own way and were able to experience first hand (from the beach that is) some of these famous surf destinations on our tour of Tahiti.

The surfing beach of Teahupoo is one of the better known wave breaks on the island and is frequented by all the best and most daring big wave surfers in the world. But while Teahupoo may be best known for its glassy smooth and freakishly enormous wave tubes that form on the outer reef, it's not just for the daredevils of the surfing world. During our visit the swells were not that big and we had a great time watching the local kids riding the smaller waves that broke right off the rocky beach.  Since most of the surfing beaches offer sharp volcanic rock or jagged coral under the waves, everyone has to be very careful - but that's the price you pay for great waves in the south pacific.

During our travels we try to figure out what kids in other countries do for fun when school gets out.  For the kids on Tahiti, surfing is where it's at! Fortunately, these kids have one of the greatest surfing destinations right in their own backyard.

SOT

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Name This Anemone-Dwelling Fish!

We've seen a couple of these fish on Moorea and Huahine.  They're a special type of fish ... with a funny name!  They live amongst the fingers of sea anemones.  The anemone stings most animals (fish and humans), but this fish secretes a special mucus coating on its body that prevents them from getting hurt.  The anemone serves as a safe haven for this fish.

 

When we would dive down to take a look at this fish, it would quickly retreat into the anemone and stare back at us.  It was approximately 3-4 inches long, 2 inches tall, and bright yellow with two whitish-blue vertical stripes.

 

Unlike its famous Disney-Pixar relative, this fish had two equally-sized fins!

 

NAME THAT CREATURE!!

 

NTC

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Name This Salt Water, Reef Dwelling Fish

We saw lots of this fish under our boat while we were anchored in Moorea. We're told that you can't eat them, even though they look rather large and meaty. They're about 6-8 inches long, 3 inches high, and mostly round. They swim slowly and give you a squinty look if you approach them underwater.

We can't tell what they eat, or what eats them, but maybe you can! Guess the creature, and tell us some more about it via crew@eyeotw.org.

NAME THAT CREATURE!

NTC

 

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Name This Big, Blue-Eyed, Freshwater Creature!

On the island of Huahine, we heard about these creatures that live in a freshwater creek in the town of Faaie. The Polynesians regularly feed them and consider them sacred - killing one will earn you a trip to prison.

They were about 4-5 feet long, up to 5 inches in diameter, had tiny fins, but mostly looked like a big tube. They have mouths at one end, and big blue eyes.

We bought a can of mackerel to feed them. As soon as we dumped some food into the shallow water, they began to swarm around us. We petted them and noticed that their skin was smooth, but rather slimy. Will and Amanda tried to pick them up, but they were too squirmy and slippery to lift out of the water.

NAME THAT CREATURE!

NTC

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A Basket of Goods: Tahiti

We didn't have to look far to fill our basket in Papeete. Everything was close at hand - we even found the first McDonalds since Panama! Here are our prices. Remember that they use the Pacific Franc here in French Polynesia.

Big Mac: 640 PF

Coke: 250 PF

Haircut: 1500 PF

By far, our most expensive country yet!

ABG

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Pineapples, Papayas, and Bananas

While anchored on Moorea, we decided to swim to shore and take a walk. That walk soon turned into a hike, and we walked all the way around the mountain visible from the boat, Mt. Rotui, and through Opunohu Valley. The valley was filled with fruit orchards, and we saw rows of papaya trees and fields of pineapple plants. There were signs proclaiming that picking was not allowed, but it was fun to walk along the rows of trees, looking up at the ripening fruit.

We also saw a few banana trees, and decided to see if we might be able to buy some to bring back to the boat. We heard someone in the house nearest the trees and walked around back, where we unintentionally frightened a woman doing dishes! After the initial shock, she seemed very excited to talk with us and show us her fruit trees. We learned that her name was Madama Rue, and she showed us how to tear banana bunches from the trees. She also explained about her pineapple field, and said that all you need to do is clear the land and pineapple plants will grow, because there are already seeds in the ground.

Madame Rue filled a bag with bananas, and then threw a pineapple in on top! She wouldn't accept any payment and shooed us on our way, still marveling that we had walked the entire distance. After many 'mercis!' and 'au revoirs!' we continued on our way, looking forward to a banana feast.

MIN

 

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